Logitech Pedal Maintenance

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These modifications and tips are applicable to the Logitech MOMO Force, the Logitech Wingman Formula Force (red wheel, manufactured in Taiwan or China), the Logitech Wingman Formula (yellow wheel, USB), and the Logitech Wingman Formula (black wheel, serial port). As I'm unfamiliar with units from other manufacturers, it is unknown whether these mods can be applied.

Most sim racing veterans will be well versed with these methods, thus this tutorial is aimed at the newer PC racer. I don't pretend to be an expert in these matters; the information presented here has been gathered through several years experience, and of course, trial and error. The main objective is to install a squash ball in place of the OEM brake pedal spring in the Logitech pedals, as some confusion over the procedure exists. While the unit is apart, it's a good idea to thoroughly inspect and clean the inner workings.

Okay, so why a squash ball? One of the most common complaints of racing game controllers is the unrealistic feel of the brake pedal; it's simply too light. This makes modulation and, in particular, heavy braking maneuvers very difficult and inconsistent. One might rig up a complex and cumbersome mechanism involving bungee cords, or pieces of foam or similar material stuffed in and around the brake pedal, but there is a better way. The unlikely squash ball provides the perfect solution, offering consistent braking with the necessary resistance, and a progressive feel. Once this easy task is complete, your Logitech pedals will offer greater control (though it can't be guaranteed, in theory at least, lap times should improve), while retaining their factory appearance, all for the low, low cost of about $3.00. It's the simplest, most inexpensive, and effective tweak available.

Shut off PC and disconnect wheel and pedals. Turn the pedal unit upside down, and remove the ten screws. Remove the cover. Though likely unnecessary to mention, I'm going to offer this bit of advice anyway: remember, when the pedals are inverted, the throttle is on the left, and the brake is on the right! 'Nuff said.

Remove the brake pedal spring (that's the one on the right when viewed upside down, right?). Throw the old spring into your spare parts bin.

Place the pedal unit cover before you, and note the indentation formerly used for the brake pedal spring. This is where the squash ball shall be placed. Lightly fasten the ball in place with a piece of household transparent tape. As the unit will be reassembled upside down, the tape will ensure the ball is held securely in place.

The following procedure is only for older wheels, and/or for those who are experiencing trouble with calibration. As stated above, I'm no expert, but I do know that after many hours of hard sim racing action, it will become necessary to clean the potentiometers, or "pots", as they are more commonly known. If you're having difficulty achieving or maintaining the maximum numerical value when calibrating your pedals within GPL, particularly the throttle, this step will likely solve your problem. It's an easy job, requiring little or no mechanical aptitude. Heck, even I can do it!

If you choose not to perform this procedure, then you're done! Proceed to the reassembly page.

Okay, for those of you who are really bored, let's clean the pots. You'll require some sort of TV tuner control cleaner. I use Techcessories Tuner Control Cleaner & Lubricant, part #64-4315, available from Radio Shack in Canada and the United States. Do not use WD-40, or a similar product. I understand that this will dry out the seals, and further and more frequent cleaning and lubing of the pots will become standard procedure. While it's not necessary to remove any wires from the pots when cleaning, one should gently lift the pot from its' position, and place a piece of paper towel beneath. Lightly spray the area where the rotating shaft enters the pot. Turn the shaft back and forth several times to work the cleaner into the device. Allow to air dry for a moment. Repeat for the other pot.

It's also a good idea at this time to regrease the pedal bearing surfaces, especially if your wheel is of an older vintage. Lithium grease is the preferred stuff for this purpose. Stay away from wheel bearing or chassis grease, 3-in-1 oil, or other petroleum based greases, as the plastic will react poorly to it. Clean the old grease off the pivoting ends of the pedals, as well as the bearing races, then apply the new grease.

Disclaimer: The author makes no claims or guarantees as to the effectiveness or safety of these modifications; the author shall not be held
liable in any way if one should follow these instructions and bugger their equipment. All images and text © 2006 Johnny Lugnuts